“Forget Lambrusco and discover ‘the Lambrusco,'” writes Alberto Lupetti, Italy’s leading authority on Champagne, “because this was likely the original Lambrusco.”
Lini 2005 Lambrusco Metodo Classico
If you’re expecting a classic Lambrusco, the nose of this wine will surprise you from the get-go. But in a positive way: You’ll raise an eyebrow as you experience an “ah-ha” moment. The wine is fresh and vibrant, with vivacious floral notes and a hint of citrus when you first taste it. Next come spice and medicinal herbs, roots, underbrush, and then finally the fruit appears: Small wild berries, more dry than sweet. Only as the nose begins to open up do you get the darker and more vinous notes. But the wine remains elegant and fresh all the while, with a faint hint of toast and umami aromas. You can’t help but be reminded of Pinot Noir in this wine… On the palate, the wine is fresh and silky (Fabio Lini’s decision not to allow for malolactic fermentation to take place makes for a winner: Chapeau, Fabio Lini!). The wine pivots between rhubarb and chinotto as its vinous character begins to open up and the acidity and complexity begin to emerge. The finish is clean and cleansing, with just a touch of delicate minerality and citrus…
Alberto Lupetti is the editor of Grandi Champagne, now in its fourth edition, Italy’s authoritative guide to the wines of Champagne.