Alicia Lini recently came across this 20018 Rolling Stone review by Filippo Polidori, one of Italy’s leading influencers. In his article, he pairs Lini Lambrusco Scuro with Bruce Springsteen’s “Born to Run” and he quotes “his friend” Oliviero Toscani, the celebrated Italian photographer.
Their conclusion? There is no wine hipper than Lambrusco.
We’ve translated the piece in its entirety here. Enjoy!
Did you know that Lambrusco used to be as popular in the U.S. as it was in Italy?
By the end of the 1970s, 50 percent of the Italian wine exported to the U.S. was Lambrusco, although that trend changed.
But as often happens, neither man nor the market are always grateful.
Despite the hard work of Lambrusco producers, for years their wines were consumed almost exclusively in the region where they were produced.
25 years later Lambrusco has returned and people are talking about it.
Today [2008], Lambrusco is the biggest selling wine in Brazil.
Its popularity is owed to its simplicity, to its directness.
Once, when I happened to be talking with my friend, the often genius Oliverio Toscani [the famous Italian photographer], he offered this definition:
“A wine that got around because it was an easy hook-up.”
Lambrusco’s strength comes from its easygoing nature. But it’s also what holds it back.
In recent years, concentrated, muscular, steroid-driven wines have been the trend. And simplicity is seen as banality.
But despite these challenges, Lambrusco has returned to the top and people love it again. It’s “vintage” and young people like that.
Oliveri Toscani had this to say: “Lambrusco is the true wine of Italy. It’s like Marcello Mastroianni. Who could be better than him to represent Italy? Lambrusco has an Italian face. But we Italians are embarrassed by it because it’s not trendy. It’s ridiculous. Actually, Lambrusco is trendy, more so than other wines! If Italians were truly chic, they would get it.”
This is Lambrusco! A human wine that allows you to drink well without expecting payback.
When I sat down to write this article, I picked a CD that represented two different musical souls: Rock and folk.
Bruce Springsteen is just the right artist and “Born to Run” is the perfect sound track.
The wine I chose is Lini 910 Lambrusco Scuro.
From the moment you pour it into the glass, the brilliant ruby red color and the aromas of cherry and strawberry let you know you are with someone “simpatico.” This Lambrusco needs no introduction to be appreciated. It’s testament to simplicity’s greatness.
Filippo Polidori
Rolling Stone (Italia)
February 2008